Greenwashing in Fashion
Jay Westerveld created the phrase "greenwashing" in response to the hotel's Save The Towel" movement in 1986. Consumers were encouraged to reuse towels to conserve water. However, it was revealed that the campaign was primarily a cost-saving initiative, not an environmental one, as implied.
Greenwashing, a misleading marketing strategy, has become widespread in recent decades across various industries as brands make unsubstantiated claims about their sustainability efforts. Greenwashing creates mistrust among consumers and negatively impacts a brand's image, which can be irreparable.
The fashion industry has received criticism for using greenwashing tactics to capitalise on consumers' increased interest in sustainability by giving the perception that their products and manufacturing processes are more environmentally friendly. According to the Synthetics Anonymous report, 59% of environmental claims made by fashion brands are either deceptive or lack proper substantiation, as per UK Competition and Markets Authority criteria. The influence of deceptive tactics limits consumers' ability to distinguish genuine initiatives, shaping their purchasing decisions. In a 2022 survey, approximately 47% of fashion customers in the UK agreed to stop purchasing from a fashion brand shown to be making false or deceptive statements about the sustainability of its products.
Millennials and Gen Z consumers are more likely than older generations to purchase products aligned with their personal, social and environmental values. Gen Z consumers are considered the sustainable generation; however, the relationship with fashion is complex. 73% of those surveyed are willing to pay more for sustainably sourced products and enjoy second-hand shopping. However, fast fashion clothing hauls across social media platforms are one of this demographic's most popular and consumed trends. The increasing popularity of these hauls not only encourages but also glorifies excessive consumption, contributing to the notion of fashion as disposable.
Greenwashing emphasises the significance of assessing the credibility of fashion brands' sustainability claims. Transparency and traceability are lacking within the fashion industry's supply chains, making it challenging to verify claims as information is not readily accessible. Frequently used interchangeably, vague terms like "eco," "sustainable," "recycled," and "conscious" may indicate potential greenwashing. While it doesn't guarantee it, using these words warrants further research into the claims made by brands. As a result, consumers must actively educate themselves and increase their awareness to manage the challenges posed by greenwashing.
Greenwashing, including fast fashion and high-end brands, is prevalent in the fashion industry, indicating widespread across different market levels. However, an even cheaper and quicker business model compared to fast fashion, called ultra-fast fashion, is becoming increasingly popular. Time-to-market, technological integration, and sustainability considerations are the primary differences between rapid and ultra-quick fashion, and fast fashion is known for its rapid production. In contrast, ultra-fast fashion employs innovative technologies that may worsen environmental issues.
Examples of Greenwashing in Fashion
Luxury Fashion Brands
Luxury brands are not immune to greenwashing allegations, with multiple luxury clothing labels facing allegations of insufficient transparency in their supply chains. It's standard for these brands to manufacture their garments in factories located in lower-income countries. However, gaps in European Union regulations enable brands to label their products as "Made in Italy" or "Made in France," even if only minimal processes, such as quality control, occur in these countries. This loophole enables luxury brands to cultivate and maintain a specific premium image and customer perception. With higher price points and the implied mark of quality and craftsmanship associated with "Made in Italy" or "Made in France," Western luxury consumers typically do not associate expensive luxury products with production in lower-income countries. The need for clarity about the manufacturing origin raises concerns about transparency and can lead to greenwashing while affecting sustainability progress within the industry.
Ultra-Fast Fashion Brands
Boohoo PLC introduced its UP.FRONT Fashion Ready for the Future sustainability strategy based on three main principles: Clothes.made smarter, Suppliers.on better terms and Business.taking action. Despite the debut of the "Ready for the Future" range, which included 466 items made from recycled polyester, it was overshadowed by the huge and constantly updated "new in" area. Vice's calculations found that Boohoo launched roughly 100 new products daily. The brand attracted criticism and allegations of greenwashing because its production and business model were contradictory and made no significant improvements in sustainability.
Shein, pronounced "She-in," the Chinese fast fashion company known for rapidly producing cheap garments and accessories, has experienced criticism for its sustainability activities, including greenwashing. Critics highlight vague and unverifiable sustainability claims and use terms like "sustainable practice" and "material with little impact on the environment" without substantial evidence. The brand has been accused of using influencers to promote excessive consumption, as shown by the popularity of #SHEINhaul videos across social media. Accusations of greenwashing stem from influencer-sponsored trips to the factories, disseminating misinformation and fostering a deceptive image of sustainable practices. Shein's lack of transparency and low environmental and social responsibility have caused the brand to receive the lowest ratings for its environmental impact, labour conditions, use of Uyghur cotton and animal welfare. These factors have sparked widespread concerns regarding Shein's ethical and sustainable practices alongside greenwashing.
High Street Fast Fashion Brands
Inditex, the parent company of popular fashion retailers such as Zara, Berska and Stradivarius, have been criticised for greenwashing and "ambiguous and unsubstantiated" sustainability plans across its subsidiaries. One of its most popular brands, Zara, has popularised the fast fashion model as it can take a design to market in 15 days and replicate high-end designs at lower prices. A crucial element of Zara's fast fashion model lies in its agility to swiftly respond to consumer demand and feedback. This approach lets them consistently update their inventory, enticing customers to return and explore the latest designs. Zara's sustainability commitments, such as using renewable energy and introducing more sustainable materials, are overshadowed by its overconsumption-fuelled business model and environmental impact. The genuineness of its sustainability initiatives has been questioned as Fashionchecker scored Inditex a low score on supply chain transparency.
H&M gained a negative reputation and was accused of greenwashing on multiple occasions, with critics highlighting the deceptive and misleading sustainable marketing initiatives. These allegations include lawsuits aimed mostly at their "Conscious Choice" collections alongside misleading labelling, marketing, and advertising. H&M used green hangtags to market its Conscious Choice products, implying that these items were more environmentally conscious than others. However, this practice was criticised as a ploy 'designed to mislead consumers by using false environmental sustainability profiles.' This criticism stemmed from the fact that most Conscious Choice products were made from polyester and recycled plastic.
Swedish Boulevard newspaper Aftonbladet alleged that H&M misrepresented its business sustainability, particularly its ability to close the loop and divert textiles from landfills through its recycling program. The newspaper tracked several H&M garments, with two items reaching a recycling facility as expected. However, one garment ended up in a textile factory in India, and the digital trail mysteriously vanished for three other clothes.
A report by Quartz exposed "misleading" and "outright deceptive" tactics employed by H&M, and the retailer faced more accusations of greenwashing. H&M integrated the Higg Index and scored on online product pages. Each item's displayed scores were designed to inform consumers about the environmental impact of materials; however, H&M overlooked the negative Higg Index scores, falsely claiming that over half of the scorecards depicted items as environmentally friendly. For example, products were advertised as using 20% less water instead of scoring minus 20 in that category. The various scandals and greenwashing accusations surrounding H&M have led to doubts about the company's dedication to genuine sustainability and ethical principles.
Key Takeaways from Greenwashing in Fashion
Definition & Origins – The term "greenwashing" was coined in 1986 by Jay Westerveld in response to deceptive hotel sustainability campaigns. Today, it refers to misleading marketing tactics that falsely present brands as environmentally responsible.
Impact on Consumers & Brands – Greenwashing erodes consumer trust and can cause long-term reputational damage for brands. A UK survey found that 47% of consumers would stop purchasing from a fashion brand found guilty of greenwashing.
Greenwashing in Fashion – 59% of sustainability claims made by fashion brands lack proper substantiation, misleading consumers into believing products are more eco-friendly than they are.
Consumer Behavior & Fast Fashion – Millennials and Gen Z prioritize sustainability but contribute to overconsumption through trends like fast fashion hauls, contradicting their eco-conscious values.
Transparency Challenges – The fashion industry lacks clear supply chain traceability, making it difficult for consumers to verify sustainability claims. Terms like "eco," "sustainable," and "conscious" are often used vaguely, warranting further scrutiny.
Luxury & High-Street Brands' Greenwashing – Many luxury and fast fashion brands, including H&M, Zara, and Shein, have been accused of misleading consumers through deceptive marketing, lack of transparency, and questionable sustainability programs.
Ultra-Fast Fashion & Its Risks – Ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein and Boohoo introduce even more rapid production cycles than fast fashion, exacerbating environmental concerns despite sustainability claims.
