Higg Index controversy
The Higg Index, developed by The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), consists of five self-assessment tools to evaluate the sustainability performance and impact of the value chain and products in the clothing and footwear industries.
While widely used in the fashion industry, the Higg Index faced controversy and accusations of greenwashing, a third-party report by KPMG to investigate the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI) and the Higg Product Module (PM). KPMG concluded the Higg Index should not be used alone.
The Norwegian Consumer Authority (NCA) warned brands, including the H&M group, expressing concerns about potential misinterpretation and inaccurate data within the Higg Index. This tool measures environmental factors such as water use and global warming, comparing them to an equivalent T-shirt made from conventional cotton. The data provided can mislead consumers, creating the impression that an organic cotton T-shirt has a significantly lower environmental impact without supporting evidence.
Despite its significant adverse environmental impact, the index's scores have faced criticism for favouring synthetic materials over natural fibres, with polyester labelled as one of the most sustainable fabrics. This has led fast fashion companies to misrepresent plastic-based synthetic materials as eco-friendly. The Higg Index controversy underscores the need for transparency and accuracy in sustainability reporting to substantiate product and impact claims. It raises doubts about the industry's reliance on self-regulated and corporate-funded frameworks and platforms, such as the SAC, which receives funding from the synthetics industry.
The SAC has recently undergone rebranding and is now called Cascale. While the Vice President, Andrew Martin, asserts this change is unrelated to accusations of greenwashing and the Higg Index controversy, the organisation unequivocally expresses its continued support for the index. Andrew Martin states that the suite of tools is ready for ongoing evolution based on recommendations by KPMG.
Key Takeaways from the Higg Index Controversy
Purpose of the Higg Index – Developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (now Cascale), the Higg Index consists of self-assessment tools to measure sustainability in the fashion industry.
Greenwashing Accusations – The index has been criticized for misleading consumers and favoring synthetic fabrics like polyester, despite their environmental impact.
Concerns Over Data Accuracy – A KPMG report concluded that the Higg Index should not be used alone to assess sustainability, and the Norwegian Consumer Authority (NCA) warned brands like H&M about potential misinterpretation.
Misleading Comparisons – The index compares environmental factors, such as water usage, between materials, sometimes creating an inaccurate perception that certain fabrics are more sustainable than they actually are.
Corporate Influence – Critics argue that self-regulated, corporate-funded sustainability frameworks like the Higg Index lack transparency and may serve industry interests rather than environmental responsibility.
Rebranding and Future Changes – The Sustainable Apparel Coalition rebranded as Cascale but continues to support the Higg Index, stating that it will evolve based on external recommendations.
